Energy Loss of a Pool

I have found this graph an excellent tool to illustrate the expected energy loss of a constant depth pool based on standard summer parameters. However these parameters are variable day by day; humidity, the wind chill effect and the extent of moving water around the pool all have an effect on the heat loss and the increase or decrease of the heating demand of the pool.

For an example:

With outdoor air temperatures of 15 degrees a 10m x 5m pool covered for 20hrs/day will lose 150watts/m2/hr - 7.5kw/hr. This means that the pool requires 7.5kw/hr to maintain its set water temperature of 27 degrees. If you wanted to increase the pool temperature then you would need to provide <7.5kw/hr to move the temperature up.

What this graph especially highlights is the extent of heat lost when the pool remains uncovered. The same pool uncovered would lose 36kw/hr, which in most domestic applications means the heating source running constantly to try and maintain the temperature.

What we can learn from this?

·         Keeping the pool covered when not being used is very important

·         With new builds it is important to consider ground conditions when completing the dig. Dewatering the site will have a long term saving on the running costs.

·         Consider your pool use and length of season carefully before deciding on the correct heater to install. There is no point installing a heat pump with 15kw of output if you want to be swimming in a uncovered pool late in the season, where the heat loss is greater than the heat pumps output.

Spa BioFilm

Spa  Bio Film - The Basics

Is it time to deep clean your Spa? If you have done nothing to remove the biofilm or keep it from forming on your spa, then be assured you have biofilm on every surface, and it is very difficult to remove once it has formed. Despite best efforts to keep a spa clean, if not properly treated then over time biofilm will start to build up. This can be particularly prevalent in the pipe work, where the chlorine and spa chemicals have reduced exposure. Biofilm contains bacteria, dirt, mould and often viruses or parasites. It grows in the nooks and crannies within the plumbing systems and jets and forms a slippery film.  Why is it necessary to remove Biofilm? Even well maintained tubs will accumulate biofilm deposits and attract ‘nasties’. This build up provides a breeding ground of potentially dangerous organisms to your health. It will also reduce the performance of the spa as the pipe work and jets become restricted. A spa with immaculate plumbing results in cleaner, clearer, fresher water with better circulation. Don’t Panic! Firstly, Biofilm builds slowly in well maintained spas. We would recommend that during your usual emptying rotation a ‘spa and hot tub cleaner’ is used. This will remove oils and soap deposits and assist in reducing the build up of BioFilm. For a really deep clean, which should be done every 12-18 months depending on bather use, you should use a Bio Film eliminator (Chlorine Dioxide). This is a more aggressive and effective cleaner and the results are often startling when used on older spas. Your spa can react like this when treated with a Biofilm eliminator as the slime film and deposits are released from the pipe work, heater and pump internals. Once removed, the spa is then polished. Deep Clean Makeover for your Spa Cresta Leisure offers the following full treatment service: Prepare spa for deep clean Apply Bio Film Eliminator Where possible we will check inside the cabinet and inspect O-rings and tighten any unions Clean filter, wash down cabinet and cover, treating cover with a UV protector Empty and rinse Spa Polish Internal ShellRefill Balance and commission

New for 2013 - Poollock Manual Safety Cover

New for 2013 the V5 Manual safety cover will be exclusively available to Cresta. The V5M Poollock safety cover offers all the manufacturing quality and precision engineering that you would expect from Poollock, but by being a manual cover it can be supplied and installed at more affordable price.

The geared crank winding mechanism allows the cover to be easily retracted off the pool, with the running gear traveling through a track system positioned behind the copings.  The track can be recessed into the paving or fixed directly on top, with just a variation in installation cost.

By releasing the mechanism the cover can be then pulled back onto the pool by a leading edge and guy rope; as many manual solar covers are operated.

The cover is supplied with a dewatering submersible pump, this sits on top of the cover and pumps away any rain water that collects.

As sheet covers entirely encapsulate the pool you achieve a summer and winter cover in one, with the added reassurance of 100% safety. The cover material comes in a number of attractive colours and the UV protected  PVc coating.

Benefits

Safety – You and even the extended family can walk on it; so unattended children being left in the garden or around the pool are safe from drowning. Curious pets and wildlife are also safe.

Debris Free – Be running through a track the cover encapsulates the pool preventing debris being blown into the pool throughout the year. Less maintenance in the summer and a far easier and cleaner pool come the opening in the spring.

Chemical Saving – By blocking out the UV the cover reduces the chlorine breakdown in water by sunlight. You therefore reduce your chlorine consumption have less of a chance of a green pool at any time of the year.

Heat Conservation – The sheet cover dramatically reduces the wind chilling and evaporation effect that cools the water normally. The covers also reduce rain dilution of heat and chemicals, especially during the winter months.

Appearance – We can’t avoid the roller at the end of the pool, but we do think the cover is more attractive than a bubble cover. Due to the track mechanism there is also no need to install a winter cover and therefore the steel anchor pins and drilled holes in the paving can be avoided.

For further details visit http://www.poollock.com/pl089/v5-manual.php?G1=5&G2=5&G3=0 or contact Simon at Cresta Leisure simon@cresta-leisure.co.uk for more details or a quote.

Pool Closing Procedure

The following procedure should take a couple of hours, but will save DAYS at the start of next season.

This  procedure covers the main processes, however every pool is different so please consider the pool you're closing and the associated equipment.

• Clean solar cover and roll up. It is advisable to protect the cover from UV by either storing in a dry barn/garage or wrapping it in a solar protective sheet.
• Vac out all leaves and debris - left in the pool will rot down and stain the liner/grout or plaster finish. If the pool has a designated Vacuum point then we would recommend vaccing the pool too waste rather than filtration as this will reduce the pool levels at the same time.
• Backwash filter thoroughly to remove dirt which should not be allowed to overwinter in the filter
• Lower water level to 6-10" below the skimmer - ensure skimmer and vac valves are closed when reducing the levels.
• Shock dose with Calcium Hypochlorite or Sodium Hypochlorite - seeking <10ppm
• Adjust pH to 7.2-7.4 to maximise efficiency of shock chlorine
• Add winterising algicide
• Float weighted plastic drums/bottles in middle of pool. These act as a buffer should thick ice foams.
• Remove steps and skimmer baskets
• Fit winter debris cover (WDC). These are essential in reducing wind brown debris getting into the pool and reducing UV light breaking down the winterising chemicals.

• 

  Cris cross debris cover correctly installed

• Drain down filtration, heating and pipework systems. A number of customers are now protecting their heaters by insulating or wrapping them in a protective sheet
• Grease all exposed metal surfaces with petroleum jelly to prevent rusting
• Drain pump and spray with water repellent or store in dry location
• Open all valves above water level and close those below
• Switch off auto top up (if present)
• Switch off main electrical supply to pool equipment

We hope this procedure is of help. It is common for customers to ask their local pool business to complete this procedure for them.

Enclosures

With weather like this who would use or consider having a pool? One way to counter that would be to consider a enclosure. Here are a few reasons why it could be the answer to our dreadful summers.
 

Extension	A swimming pool cover extends considerably the period of use of the swimming pool, thanks to « the greenhouse effect ». The first sun’s rays of the spring will be then the signal for the start of a swimming season that will go until the last days of the autumn.

Protection	In addition to the increased temperature, the pool cover contributes to the quality of water.The swimming pool is protected from usual pollutions: dusts, plants, small animals, rainwater… It is the quality of your bathing water that will be greatly improved.

Safety

The cover ensures the control of access to the swimming pool for young children. It is a key part of the safety regulations require for the changes made to the law in France (law n° 2003-09 of January 3rd, 2003). Pool covers should always conform with standard NF P90-309. The pool cover once securely closed becomes inaccessible to young children.

The most affordable style of enclosure is the Abrisud low profile. The following website being an excellent source of information and illustrations.  http://www.aquaflex.co.uk/159/Abrisud_Pool_Enclosures.aspx

If you are after more living space then the Endless or Summit Enclosures are very popular.
http://www.summitleisure.co.uk/swimming-pool-enclosures.html
http://www.certikin.co.uk/enclosures.asp
Having been associated with both manufacturers we believe that these 2 enclosures are the best on the market.
This style of unit allows the client to retract the cover off the pool during those glorious English summer days, enjoying that true outdoor pool experience. However, when the weather turns wet and cold they can still get out and swim by pulling the enclosure shut, getting the best of both worlds.
The investment in an enclosure is always eye watering, however with the recent inclement weather and the ability to extend your swimming season more and more people are considering and installing them.

Filter Sand Changes

So how often and what should I use as a media?
In a domestic application with the correct flow rate and filter area, sand should and will last 6-8 years, especially if it is periodically receives a deep chemical clean often done as a service at the start of a season by your local pool company.
The easiest way to identify if the filter media needs changing is by the visual effect of they water, the speed it clarifies any water issues or to actually inspect the sand for a smoothness
The media polishes the water, removing organics, oils and greases. The sharper the sand the greater its filtering capacity. However, through water movement the media will be smoothed and the sharpness of the sand diminished; think of a beach and smooth pebbles. The effect of this reduces the medias ability of removing fine debris and organics.
Well balanced and filtered pool water should shimmer and almost shine, if its appearance is dull then the chemistry could be unbalanced or the sand is struggling to remove the fine suspended debris.
The touch test is a good way of identifying this; by shinning a touch into the pool at night and identifying tiny particles suspended in the water is an indicator that the media needs changing. As a temporary solution a flocculant can be used, which assists the filter in gathering these fine particles. However with continued dullness then a change in media should be considered.
Domestic filters are either 18" 24" or 32" in diameter and will hold aprox 100kg 150kg or 200kg of normally a silica 16/30 sand. The larger filter may have a shingle at the bottom of the filter to support the sand from crushing the filtering laterals, 'fingers' in the bottom of the filter.
Removing a filter lid is never easy. Having the correct tool/spanner always makes it easier, although even then some gentle persuasion will be needed. To reduce the water content then the drain valve at the bottom of the filter should be released.
The only way to remove the sand through the tight hatches is by using a cup or better still a wet and dry vacuum, that will suck the sand out. Either way it is a laborious task.
Once removed the laterals should be checked for damage and wear. They should twist or unscrew. Don't hesitate to replace if you have any concern, there is nothing worse than needing to replace them the following year as sand starts to enter the pool through a damage lateral.
Once emptied then you can recharge the filter with either silica sand, Zeoclear or glass. With top mount filters it is recommended to block the central delivery pipe to prevent media entering the pipe.
Sand is the most popular media and has been used since the year 'dot.'
Glass is very effective but does wear quickly (not as hard as sand).
Zeoclear is an excellent media at breaking down ammonias and therefore reduces the regularity of backwashing. It also has the added advantage of being able to be rejenervated by a saline wash every 24months, therefore not needing to be changed after the 6-8years. However, Zeoclear is more expensive, although with a domestic filter this is only marginal, especially when spread over the years.
Once charged, replace the filter lid and perhaps use a silica grease on the o ring for an effective seal.
Heavily rinse the sand before you return to filtration to prevent the dust of the media returning to the pool.
Depending on the size of the filter the task should take 2-4hrs and would cost aprox £200-£400 if a pool specialist were to complete the task.

Grand Designs Live

As Pool Contractors of the Year 2012 we have been invited by SPATA to showcase ourselves on their stand G29. In doing so we have been given some free tickets for anyone who cares to attend.
1st come 1st served.
Our focus will be promoting Cresta and our key suppliers products.In areas of the country we can't serve we'll be promoting other National Leisure Members.
http://www.granddesignslive.com/

Spa Problems - Who to turn to?

Sadly many gardens are becoming littered with spas that aren't working, due to the quality of build, lack of expertise and availability of spares. This is starting to taint the spa market, with customers being turned off by hearing about poor customer service and difficulties with the product.
The first precaution when considering buying a spa is to establish how reputable and established the spa company you are consider buying from is? There have been many 'spa specialists' that have come and gone over the recent years. As they go, the customers chances of getting back-up and problems resolved on the usual 5 year spa warranty is gone
Also, consider how long the company has been doing their promoted spa. Many businesses chop and change there spa supplier and with that comes the lack of technical knowledge and the capacity to hold the necessary spares to resolve any issues.
If you get a fault with the spa the first call must be to your originally supplier. They should have an obligation to fulfil the warranty commitment, promptly and efficiently. Failure to do so will only leave them in a poor light and you will be less likely to recommend them in the future.
If the supplier has gone bust, address it then with the manufacturer. Arctic Spas, Jacuzzi, Beachcomber and a few others are all established and trusted manufacturers and should be able to help, especially if the spa is still in warranty.
The last avenue is to contact a specialist spa technician company. Spa-Fix http://www.spafix.co.uk have become one of the strongest teams in the South, although they do come at a price.
Whatever you do, do your homework before you buy. Don't be left with large wooden box in the garden, that is only used as a pond! Trust me I've seen it before.

Liner Selection

This year our preferred supplier, Aquaflex (www.aquaflex.co.uk), have added an excellent addition to their website allowing you to configure your own pool liner; even filling it with water so you can get an impression of what it is like underwater!
http://www.renolit.com/ext/sp_konfigurator
As this is a link to their German suppliers, you will need to be careful in the liner descriptions to that of the UK market. However, they are all available so just check the description to their website.
If your water chemistry  has been good and the water temperature not too high then a 30 thou liner should last 10-12 years, although I've seen them as old as 18 years. Normally it is the corners that come away from the track or just the general appearance that forces the owner to consider changing the liner. This isn't however a major issue or even cost, considering the longevity and improvement a new liner will make to the enjoyment of the pool.
I will be adding more details about measuring your pool and installing a liner shortly. For the time being I hope you can have some fun selecting a colour/pattern and getting a feel on how the pool could be transformed!

Swimming Pool Safety

Just for interest - Check out the link below.
Quite amazing

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A78QiQ61oBM

 

Hose Pipe Ban

With everyone within the industry talking about it I thought I should do an update on the situation.
As of the 05.04 those water authorities below, will be enforcing a hose pipe ban:
Southern Water, South East Water, Thames Water, Anglian Water, Sutton and East Surrey, Veolia Central and Veolia South East.
Luckily the West Country (especially Dorset!) is a wet place and so the pressure on water companies to apply hose pipe bans isn't so severe. However this doesn't mean that caution and perhaps some preparation should be made.
Hose pipe bans do not apply to industry activities, so new installations and refurbishments (liner installations etc) aren't effected.
A good source of information and to keep upto-date with developments is the following site http://www.hosepipeban.org.uk/
Things that you can do to reduce water use with the pool are the following:

• Anything that will reduce evaporation ie Reducing water temperature. Keep the pool covered when not being used
• Extend Backwashing period. Backwash more on necessity than regularity. If the pool is experiencing light duty then there is no need to backwash so regularly. You can also consider installing a cyclone filter http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q_zBUbhxiFI As this Youtube clip illustrates the centrifugal effect of the cylinder pushes fine debris away from the filter, reducing the need to backwash.
• Harvest backwashed water. By storing the backwashed water and applying chlorine reducer the water wasted during backwashing can be used to water garden and plants.

Try the SPATA and BISHTA websites for further industry updates.

 

Pool Opening - Simple

Spring is here! And with it, the fun and excitement of swim season. Now just one thing stands between you and a watery good time: the chore of opening your pool. Of course, you can delegate the job to your pool professional, which ensures a quality job and saves you work. But if you’re a little handy and have the time, here’s a step-by-step guide on what needs to be done.

Get it ready.

First, get out what you’ll need. Pull last fall’s pool chemicals out of storage. They don’t last forever, so replace the ones whose label says they’ve expired (and during the season, use up your old ones before the new ones). Also round up any hardware you removed for the winter, and get replacements now for any missing pieces.

Okay, you’re back from the store. Clean the winter cover and the poolside decking. If the cover has standing water on it, use a submersible pump made to remove it. Then take off the cover, clean it off, and let it air-dry to prevent mildew before you fold and store it.

Get it together.

Assemble what needs assembling. Reinstall the pump, railings, diving board or whatever else you removed last fall. Take out the plugs from the filtration system and replace the return outlet fittings. (Life lesson: Save them all in one place.)

Get it full.

Most pools need the water level brought up to normal at the start of the season. This can be done with your garden hose. Or, for larger pools, you may be able to save money by paying a service to truck in the water.

Get it up and running.

Find the winterizing plugs and other parts removed for winterization (often stored in the skimmer basket or pump basket). After the filter system is put back together, fill the pump basket area with water and fasten down the pump lid. Clean the filter cartridge, or backwash the filter and add sand or DE (diatomaceous earth) as needed. Light the pilot on the pool heater according to the instructions.

Get it crud-free.

The grossest stuff first: If your pool has solids in the water, fish ’em out—literally. Don’t depend on your pool system, pool cleaner or vacuum to remove them, or you could find yourself with clogged underground pipes or a choked pump. Use a big leaf net instead.

If your water is somewhat dirty or cloudy at this point, no big problem. (If it’s black throughout or slimy green, that definitely is a problem—one that can be fixed, but requires its own set of steps for which you’ll want to consult a pool professional.)

Assuming your water does not resemble the La Brea Tar Pits, now is the time to start up the pump. Check for leaks and proper operation. There should be no major leaks (a few drops on Day One are no cause for panic), skimmers should work smoothly, the pump shouldn’t make any screeching noises, and you shouldn’t see bubbles entering the pool from the returns.

Get it in balance.

You want the pump running when you take the next step: shocking or “super-oxidizing” the water with chlorine (also true when you’re adding any other chemicals, for that matter). For those with liner pools, be kind to your liner—do not toss chlorine granules directly into the water. This can discolor the liner or even destroy it. Better to mix the granular shock chlorine in a bucket, then add that mixture into the skimmer while the system is running.

Use your water test kit to adjust the water chemistry to recommended levels. For the first 72 hours or so, keep checking it often and running your circulation system around the clock. If the pool was especially dirty, you may have to keep re-cleaning your filter, too.

Sheet Cover Servicing

I was asked this week if an existing customer should take up a service contract for the sheet cover?
They had it serviced the previous year by the manufacturers of the cover and as a consequence had no issues with it over the season. However, they felt that £300 was a lot of money for such a service this year.
Although £300 is a lot of money, when you consider that the cover is worth as much as a car and you would have a car serviced annually then they should perhaps consider having the cover serviced accordingly.
So our advice is, take up the service contract if available and hope for a trouble free season.

Swimming Pool Covers - The reasons for and against

It's all a cover up! It doesn't have to be blue and covered in bubbles to be the right cover for you. But even when it is a bubblecover, make sure you get the right one in quality and effectiveness.


Solar Bubble Covers - Only appropriate on outdoor summer pools were the cover remains on the pool for much of the day, allowing it to gain solar heat energy. Solar covers now come in different thicknesses and have various USP's which offer enhanced solar gain or heat retention values, all of which come at a price. Sadly on-line prices have taken this business away from the pool shop, which means that the buyer must be more aware of what they are purchasing.We've also seen covers that are have open bubble edges rather than heat sealed edges and joining seams that can run within 2' of the cover edge. Such manufacturing results in greater wear, reduced efficiency and less cosmetically appealing. Acceptable I guess if the price is right?!
Follow the link for more information http://www.aquaflex.co.uk/


Heat Retention Covers - This style of cover acts like a duvet, insulating the pool and reducing evapouration and heat loss. Most commonly used in indoor applications, but shouldn't be ruled out on heated outdoor pools, where solar gain isn't so imperative but  heat conservation is more important. This is especially the case if the cover is off the pool for much of the day - hotels & school pools.
Follow the link for more information http://www.plasticapool.co.uk/


Hemming and Leading Edges - By hemming or sealing the covers edge there is no opportunity for water to ingress into the cover and degrade the edges, especially important on heat retention covers. Sealing or hemming also protects the cover from friction were over the copings as the cover is rolled on and off the pool. A leading edge is a floating bar that is secured to a rope that allows the user to pull the cover evenly onto the pool from the far end. Making the covering of the pool that much easier.


Winter debris Covers - As important as the summer cover. This cover keeps wind blown debris out of an outdoor pool throughout the winter, also reducing the UV breakdown of chemicals as the cover blocks out the winter rays, prolonging the life of the chemicals and preventing the water going green. The covers are over sized by normally 300mm around the perimeter and are either fixed down with springs and pegs or with water bags, if the client is adamant that they don't want 6mm holes drilled into their paving. A winter cover will save considerable work come the spring when the pool is opened. by keeping debris out and prolonging the chemicals life the water can be clear and clean come the spring.
Follow the link for more information http://www.aquaflex.co.uk/


Manual Safety Covers - There are now a number of manual safety style covers on the market, all of which are based on a fabric sheet, either being secured in tracks or by metal bars running across the pool. This style of cover will double up as both a summer and winter cover, particularly effective in keeping debris out of the pool. There is no real solar gain achieved with this style of cover but there is some heat conservation as the cover eliminates wind chill/cooling and the warm pocket of air under the cover does insulate the pool from evaporating and heat loss.
Follow the link for more information http://www.poollock.com/ - easy cover


Automatic Slatted Safety Covers - Now we are moving into the expensive cover ranges. Slatted covers can be retro fitted, but are most often installed when the pool is built from new, as the cover can be stored in a  pit at the back of the pool, so there is no visual roller or housing for the cover.
The cover floats on the pool surface and will just appear/disappear from under your feet by the turn of a key. There are locking devises that provide an element of safety and the cover will take small weight loads if stepped upon (pets deer etc). However it will fold with an adults weight, which allows water to run onto the cover and could be considered a hazard.
The covers are electrical operated, with the motor mechanism being incorporated in the spool of the roller.
We would really strongly advise NOT TO have a floor pitted system. If the cover becomes jambed or the motor fails the entire pool needs to be emptied to resolve the issue.
The slats come coloured and there is even a solar slat, which are extremely efficient, if not just a bit expensive. They are also excellent heat retainers and reduce evaporation effectively.
The covers are popular with both indoor and outdoor pools, although when installed on an outdoor pool we would recommend that a winter cover is also considered. This allows the slatted cover to be retracted away safely, reducing the staining of debris and UV damage. The winter cover doing the things mentioned above.
Follow the link for more information http://www.poollock.com/ - slatted cover


Automatic Sheet Cover - These covers are the safest cover on the market and can be manually or  mechanically operated, the cover running along tracks either under the coping or at the rear of the coping if retro fitted. Sheet covers completely encapsulate the pool and therefore keep debris out of the pool for the entire season, so they double as a winter cover as well as a safety summer cover.
Like the slatted cover, they can be pitted or housed in a coffin style box at the rear wall.
As the cover forms a catch for rain water, it is supplied with a submersible pump that sits on the cover and removes water as it collects. It should be noted that if this fails or isn't put onto the pool then the cover cannot be removed until the water is removed of the cover.
As the cover is under a lot of torque and operates with running gear it is important that it is servcied annually to ensure trouble free operation. This therefore has an on going cost thta the customer should factor when purchasing this style of cover.

Cresta 2012

So what is 2012 going to bring for Cresta Leisure?
Well if it is anything like 2011, then we're in for a busy and exciting ride. Our key successes are listed below:


Proteus UK is now officially established. With 5 successful Proteus projects completed and 4 more in various build stages, we're looking forward to taking Proteus to bigger and better things. Proteus's unique construction method and the quality finish is appealing to both the domestic and commercial sectors and one we believe will shake the industry up over the coming 5 years. To find out more about the product visit http://www.proteuspools.com/


Heat Pumps, as a previous blog indicated, are the way forward when considering reducing the heating costs of your pool. This being the case Cresta are investing in 25 Proteam units of various sizes to arrive before the Spring of 2012. Investing in such a volume we will be able to offer a proven, high quality unit at the lower market price range. It will be only available while stocks last, but there is an opportunity for everyone to make the most of Crestas investment.


Service. We are finally getting customers to recognise that our engineers are some of the best in the country let alone in Dorset. We have been fortunate to build loyalty into training and now have expertise in all fields of poolcare and all aspects of heating (pool boilers to house AGAs). This isnow been appreciated by newer customers, that haven't been satisfied by their usual pool company.


Refurbishment We've had lots of fun and success throughout 2011, changing tired old pools into something with a real 'wow' factor.
These items are just a few of the things that have been great for 2011 and what we believe will continue to succeed in 2012. Keep following this Blog to see and hear more about what we've been upto.
For 2011 I wish you a great Xmas and a successful New Year.

Cheap Chlorine Damage

A change of tack, but saw this interesting comment recently and felt it should be shared. It was posted by a spa repair engineer highlighting the damage caused by cheap chlorine products:

Although it keeps me in a job repairing shaft seals and leaking spas, can we put a stop to cheap chemicals in hot tubs? More and more cheap margin related chemicals seem to be on the market and customers genuinely don't understand the difference. Surely it's not helping the industry? Parts are not cheap nowadays so repairs can be expensive

Obviously this doesn't just apply to hot tubs; pools also have pumps, not to mention other expensive components (Filters and Heat Exchangers). So although you maybe saving a few quid initially, it will cost you in the long run......

Remember to Drain

If we get anything like last years winter you must ensure that you drain all the pool equipment when you close the pool. If you don't, you stand a high risk of cracking heat exchangers, pumps and filters. A costly and expensive exercise.
Boilers and heat pumps can be drained by releasing the pvc/abs unions that connect the heater. It is also prudent to cover the units with a tarp/sheet to provide weather protection. I have some customers that also get heating engineers to remove the burner trays.
The pump and filter will have drain plugs at the bottom of each which need releasing and allow the water to seep out. IMPORTANT - place plugs somewhere safe so you don't lose them in the spring.
Ball valve and union connectors should also be released at the same time.

Heat Pumps

Air to Water Heat Pumps Proteam


After 4 years installing Proteam heat pumps, Cresta has the confidence to advise that it's reliability, efficiency and competitive price make it a product that every pool owner should consider.
Being so rural many pools are still running oil boilers to heat the pool. These boilers are heavy users of oil and with the price of oil continually increasing then alternative ways of heating the pool need to be considered.This is where a heat pump can achieve savings in fuel use and efficiency in heating.
There are 3 ranges which I hope I’ve been able to explain below:

·    C Model – Economy range. Ideal for small volume pools of 5000 gallons or less.

·    P  Model – Popular Range. These units are excellent summer season models and provide a high COF (Coefficient of Output) to ambient air temperatures down to 10 degrees. This means that for each electrical kW of energy you put in, you get 4-5 X of heat energy to the water (1kw in - 4kw out) This is a popular model with customers who have an existing boiler, as the boiler can speed up the heating process during the cooler seasonal months, the heat pump maintaining the water temperature throughout the summer season, meaning the boiler rarely comes on during these months.

·    Green Model – This unit will comfortable provide a good COF at temperatures to 0 degrees, so allows the season to be extended if a boiler has been decommissioned or not present.

With such positive results testimonies are easily provided. With many customers still swimming (mid Oct) in water temperatures of 78-80 degrees, which is fantastic. For more detail follow the link or contact Cresta.

Portfolio Pictures

With the help of a professional photographer (Lisa Cutler) we have been out and about taking some splendid pools and spas that we've completed over the recent couple of years. You'll be able to see them shortly on the Cresta Facebook Pages and Website. Even if we blow our own trumpet we do build and complete some very special pools. We are also fortunate to be invited to some lovely locations and be associated to some stunning installations.
It doesn't have to be new builds some of these pools have been refurbished, taking old tired pools and refurbishing them into something very special and upto date. Keep your eye out on our social media pages and please let Cresta know what you think.

Autumn Season - As the leaves start falling the maintenance and keeping the pool clean becomes more of a chore. It's even more important now to keep the pump and skimmer baskets free of debris and the filter is regularly backwashed. Pressure changes through debris and a congested filter will prevent your heater maintaining the pool temperature and there's nothing worse than getting one of the last few summer days and discovering the pool temp has dropped due to the heater cutting out on the pressure switch.
Wind blown contaminates will increase so the chlorine levels can drop quickly. So to ensure the pool becoming a pond you have still got to ensure that the sanitising levels are kept up and your pH remains between 7.2-7.4. If the pool is kept together (clear and clean) then when you do come to close the pool it will not be a burden and time consuming.
If you do give up and consider closing the pool in Sept then remember no matter how well you prepare the pool it will need some attention during the winter. A wet winter will reduce the concentrate of algicide and chlorine in the water, so pools closed early should be reduced for the second time and further chlorine and algicide will need to be applied.