Hose Pipe Ban

With everyone within the industry talking about it I thought I should do an update on the situation.
As of the 05.04 those water authorities below, will be enforcing a hose pipe ban:
Southern Water, South East Water, Thames Water, Anglian Water, Sutton and East Surrey, Veolia Central and Veolia South East.
Luckily the West Country (especially Dorset!) is a wet place and so the pressure on water companies to apply hose pipe bans isn't so severe. However this doesn't mean that caution and perhaps some preparation should be made.
Hose pipe bans do not apply to industry activities, so new installations and refurbishments (liner installations etc) aren't effected.
A good source of information and to keep upto-date with developments is the following site http://www.hosepipeban.org.uk/
Things that you can do to reduce water use with the pool are the following:

• Anything that will reduce evaporation ie Reducing water temperature. Keep the pool covered when not being used
• Extend Backwashing period. Backwash more on necessity than regularity. If the pool is experiencing light duty then there is no need to backwash so regularly. You can also consider installing a cyclone filter http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q_zBUbhxiFI As this Youtube clip illustrates the centrifugal effect of the cylinder pushes fine debris away from the filter, reducing the need to backwash.
• Harvest backwashed water. By storing the backwashed water and applying chlorine reducer the water wasted during backwashing can be used to water garden and plants.

Try the SPATA and BISHTA websites for further industry updates.

 

Pool Opening - Simple

Spring is here! And with it, the fun and excitement of swim season. Now just one thing stands between you and a watery good time: the chore of opening your pool. Of course, you can delegate the job to your pool professional, which ensures a quality job and saves you work. But if you’re a little handy and have the time, here’s a step-by-step guide on what needs to be done.

Get it ready.

First, get out what you’ll need. Pull last fall’s pool chemicals out of storage. They don’t last forever, so replace the ones whose label says they’ve expired (and during the season, use up your old ones before the new ones). Also round up any hardware you removed for the winter, and get replacements now for any missing pieces.

Okay, you’re back from the store. Clean the winter cover and the poolside decking. If the cover has standing water on it, use a submersible pump made to remove it. Then take off the cover, clean it off, and let it air-dry to prevent mildew before you fold and store it.

Get it together.

Assemble what needs assembling. Reinstall the pump, railings, diving board or whatever else you removed last fall. Take out the plugs from the filtration system and replace the return outlet fittings. (Life lesson: Save them all in one place.)

Get it full.

Most pools need the water level brought up to normal at the start of the season. This can be done with your garden hose. Or, for larger pools, you may be able to save money by paying a service to truck in the water.

Get it up and running.

Find the winterizing plugs and other parts removed for winterization (often stored in the skimmer basket or pump basket). After the filter system is put back together, fill the pump basket area with water and fasten down the pump lid. Clean the filter cartridge, or backwash the filter and add sand or DE (diatomaceous earth) as needed. Light the pilot on the pool heater according to the instructions.

Get it crud-free.

The grossest stuff first: If your pool has solids in the water, fish ’em out—literally. Don’t depend on your pool system, pool cleaner or vacuum to remove them, or you could find yourself with clogged underground pipes or a choked pump. Use a big leaf net instead.

If your water is somewhat dirty or cloudy at this point, no big problem. (If it’s black throughout or slimy green, that definitely is a problem—one that can be fixed, but requires its own set of steps for which you’ll want to consult a pool professional.)

Assuming your water does not resemble the La Brea Tar Pits, now is the time to start up the pump. Check for leaks and proper operation. There should be no major leaks (a few drops on Day One are no cause for panic), skimmers should work smoothly, the pump shouldn’t make any screeching noises, and you shouldn’t see bubbles entering the pool from the returns.

Get it in balance.

You want the pump running when you take the next step: shocking or “super-oxidizing” the water with chlorine (also true when you’re adding any other chemicals, for that matter). For those with liner pools, be kind to your liner—do not toss chlorine granules directly into the water. This can discolor the liner or even destroy it. Better to mix the granular shock chlorine in a bucket, then add that mixture into the skimmer while the system is running.

Use your water test kit to adjust the water chemistry to recommended levels. For the first 72 hours or so, keep checking it often and running your circulation system around the clock. If the pool was especially dirty, you may have to keep re-cleaning your filter, too.

Sheet Cover Servicing

I was asked this week if an existing customer should take up a service contract for the sheet cover?
They had it serviced the previous year by the manufacturers of the cover and as a consequence had no issues with it over the season. However, they felt that £300 was a lot of money for such a service this year.
Although £300 is a lot of money, when you consider that the cover is worth as much as a car and you would have a car serviced annually then they should perhaps consider having the cover serviced accordingly.
So our advice is, take up the service contract if available and hope for a trouble free season.

Swimming Pool Covers - The reasons for and against

It's all a cover up! It doesn't have to be blue and covered in bubbles to be the right cover for you. But even when it is a bubblecover, make sure you get the right one in quality and effectiveness.


Solar Bubble Covers - Only appropriate on outdoor summer pools were the cover remains on the pool for much of the day, allowing it to gain solar heat energy. Solar covers now come in different thicknesses and have various USP's which offer enhanced solar gain or heat retention values, all of which come at a price. Sadly on-line prices have taken this business away from the pool shop, which means that the buyer must be more aware of what they are purchasing.We've also seen covers that are have open bubble edges rather than heat sealed edges and joining seams that can run within 2' of the cover edge. Such manufacturing results in greater wear, reduced efficiency and less cosmetically appealing. Acceptable I guess if the price is right?!
Follow the link for more information http://www.aquaflex.co.uk/


Heat Retention Covers - This style of cover acts like a duvet, insulating the pool and reducing evapouration and heat loss. Most commonly used in indoor applications, but shouldn't be ruled out on heated outdoor pools, where solar gain isn't so imperative but  heat conservation is more important. This is especially the case if the cover is off the pool for much of the day - hotels & school pools.
Follow the link for more information http://www.plasticapool.co.uk/


Hemming and Leading Edges - By hemming or sealing the covers edge there is no opportunity for water to ingress into the cover and degrade the edges, especially important on heat retention covers. Sealing or hemming also protects the cover from friction were over the copings as the cover is rolled on and off the pool. A leading edge is a floating bar that is secured to a rope that allows the user to pull the cover evenly onto the pool from the far end. Making the covering of the pool that much easier.


Winter debris Covers - As important as the summer cover. This cover keeps wind blown debris out of an outdoor pool throughout the winter, also reducing the UV breakdown of chemicals as the cover blocks out the winter rays, prolonging the life of the chemicals and preventing the water going green. The covers are over sized by normally 300mm around the perimeter and are either fixed down with springs and pegs or with water bags, if the client is adamant that they don't want 6mm holes drilled into their paving. A winter cover will save considerable work come the spring when the pool is opened. by keeping debris out and prolonging the chemicals life the water can be clear and clean come the spring.
Follow the link for more information http://www.aquaflex.co.uk/


Manual Safety Covers - There are now a number of manual safety style covers on the market, all of which are based on a fabric sheet, either being secured in tracks or by metal bars running across the pool. This style of cover will double up as both a summer and winter cover, particularly effective in keeping debris out of the pool. There is no real solar gain achieved with this style of cover but there is some heat conservation as the cover eliminates wind chill/cooling and the warm pocket of air under the cover does insulate the pool from evaporating and heat loss.
Follow the link for more information http://www.poollock.com/ - easy cover


Automatic Slatted Safety Covers - Now we are moving into the expensive cover ranges. Slatted covers can be retro fitted, but are most often installed when the pool is built from new, as the cover can be stored in a  pit at the back of the pool, so there is no visual roller or housing for the cover.
The cover floats on the pool surface and will just appear/disappear from under your feet by the turn of a key. There are locking devises that provide an element of safety and the cover will take small weight loads if stepped upon (pets deer etc). However it will fold with an adults weight, which allows water to run onto the cover and could be considered a hazard.
The covers are electrical operated, with the motor mechanism being incorporated in the spool of the roller.
We would really strongly advise NOT TO have a floor pitted system. If the cover becomes jambed or the motor fails the entire pool needs to be emptied to resolve the issue.
The slats come coloured and there is even a solar slat, which are extremely efficient, if not just a bit expensive. They are also excellent heat retainers and reduce evaporation effectively.
The covers are popular with both indoor and outdoor pools, although when installed on an outdoor pool we would recommend that a winter cover is also considered. This allows the slatted cover to be retracted away safely, reducing the staining of debris and UV damage. The winter cover doing the things mentioned above.
Follow the link for more information http://www.poollock.com/ - slatted cover


Automatic Sheet Cover - These covers are the safest cover on the market and can be manually or  mechanically operated, the cover running along tracks either under the coping or at the rear of the coping if retro fitted. Sheet covers completely encapsulate the pool and therefore keep debris out of the pool for the entire season, so they double as a winter cover as well as a safety summer cover.
Like the slatted cover, they can be pitted or housed in a coffin style box at the rear wall.
As the cover forms a catch for rain water, it is supplied with a submersible pump that sits on the cover and removes water as it collects. It should be noted that if this fails or isn't put onto the pool then the cover cannot be removed until the water is removed of the cover.
As the cover is under a lot of torque and operates with running gear it is important that it is servcied annually to ensure trouble free operation. This therefore has an on going cost thta the customer should factor when purchasing this style of cover.

Cresta 2012

So what is 2012 going to bring for Cresta Leisure?
Well if it is anything like 2011, then we're in for a busy and exciting ride. Our key successes are listed below:


Proteus UK is now officially established. With 5 successful Proteus projects completed and 4 more in various build stages, we're looking forward to taking Proteus to bigger and better things. Proteus's unique construction method and the quality finish is appealing to both the domestic and commercial sectors and one we believe will shake the industry up over the coming 5 years. To find out more about the product visit http://www.proteuspools.com/


Heat Pumps, as a previous blog indicated, are the way forward when considering reducing the heating costs of your pool. This being the case Cresta are investing in 25 Proteam units of various sizes to arrive before the Spring of 2012. Investing in such a volume we will be able to offer a proven, high quality unit at the lower market price range. It will be only available while stocks last, but there is an opportunity for everyone to make the most of Crestas investment.


Service. We are finally getting customers to recognise that our engineers are some of the best in the country let alone in Dorset. We have been fortunate to build loyalty into training and now have expertise in all fields of poolcare and all aspects of heating (pool boilers to house AGAs). This isnow been appreciated by newer customers, that haven't been satisfied by their usual pool company.


Refurbishment We've had lots of fun and success throughout 2011, changing tired old pools into something with a real 'wow' factor.
These items are just a few of the things that have been great for 2011 and what we believe will continue to succeed in 2012. Keep following this Blog to see and hear more about what we've been upto.
For 2011 I wish you a great Xmas and a successful New Year.

Cheap Chlorine Damage

A change of tack, but saw this interesting comment recently and felt it should be shared. It was posted by a spa repair engineer highlighting the damage caused by cheap chlorine products:

Although it keeps me in a job repairing shaft seals and leaking spas, can we put a stop to cheap chemicals in hot tubs? More and more cheap margin related chemicals seem to be on the market and customers genuinely don't understand the difference. Surely it's not helping the industry? Parts are not cheap nowadays so repairs can be expensive

Obviously this doesn't just apply to hot tubs; pools also have pumps, not to mention other expensive components (Filters and Heat Exchangers). So although you maybe saving a few quid initially, it will cost you in the long run......

Remember to Drain

If we get anything like last years winter you must ensure that you drain all the pool equipment when you close the pool. If you don't, you stand a high risk of cracking heat exchangers, pumps and filters. A costly and expensive exercise.
Boilers and heat pumps can be drained by releasing the pvc/abs unions that connect the heater. It is also prudent to cover the units with a tarp/sheet to provide weather protection. I have some customers that also get heating engineers to remove the burner trays.
The pump and filter will have drain plugs at the bottom of each which need releasing and allow the water to seep out. IMPORTANT - place plugs somewhere safe so you don't lose them in the spring.
Ball valve and union connectors should also be released at the same time.

Heat Pumps

Air to Water Heat Pumps Proteam


After 4 years installing Proteam heat pumps, Cresta has the confidence to advise that it's reliability, efficiency and competitive price make it a product that every pool owner should consider.
Being so rural many pools are still running oil boilers to heat the pool. These boilers are heavy users of oil and with the price of oil continually increasing then alternative ways of heating the pool need to be considered.This is where a heat pump can achieve savings in fuel use and efficiency in heating.
There are 3 ranges which I hope I’ve been able to explain below:

·    C Model – Economy range. Ideal for small volume pools of 5000 gallons or less.

·    P  Model – Popular Range. These units are excellent summer season models and provide a high COF (Coefficient of Output) to ambient air temperatures down to 10 degrees. This means that for each electrical kW of energy you put in, you get 4-5 X of heat energy to the water (1kw in - 4kw out) This is a popular model with customers who have an existing boiler, as the boiler can speed up the heating process during the cooler seasonal months, the heat pump maintaining the water temperature throughout the summer season, meaning the boiler rarely comes on during these months.

·    Green Model – This unit will comfortable provide a good COF at temperatures to 0 degrees, so allows the season to be extended if a boiler has been decommissioned or not present.

With such positive results testimonies are easily provided. With many customers still swimming (mid Oct) in water temperatures of 78-80 degrees, which is fantastic. For more detail follow the link or contact Cresta.

Portfolio Pictures

With the help of a professional photographer (Lisa Cutler) we have been out and about taking some splendid pools and spas that we've completed over the recent couple of years. You'll be able to see them shortly on the Cresta Facebook Pages and Website. Even if we blow our own trumpet we do build and complete some very special pools. We are also fortunate to be invited to some lovely locations and be associated to some stunning installations.
It doesn't have to be new builds some of these pools have been refurbished, taking old tired pools and refurbishing them into something very special and upto date. Keep your eye out on our social media pages and please let Cresta know what you think.

Autumn Season - As the leaves start falling the maintenance and keeping the pool clean becomes more of a chore. It's even more important now to keep the pump and skimmer baskets free of debris and the filter is regularly backwashed. Pressure changes through debris and a congested filter will prevent your heater maintaining the pool temperature and there's nothing worse than getting one of the last few summer days and discovering the pool temp has dropped due to the heater cutting out on the pressure switch.
Wind blown contaminates will increase so the chlorine levels can drop quickly. So to ensure the pool becoming a pond you have still got to ensure that the sanitising levels are kept up and your pH remains between 7.2-7.4. If the pool is kept together (clear and clean) then when you do come to close the pool it will not be a burden and time consuming.
If you do give up and consider closing the pool in Sept then remember no matter how well you prepare the pool it will need some attention during the winter. A wet winter will reduce the concentrate of algicide and chlorine in the water, so pools closed early should be reduced for the second time and further chlorine and algicide will need to be applied.